If you have recently welcomed a group of little chicks into your life, you might be asking yourself: What exactly should I be feeding them? The feeding choices you make in those early days matter a lot. The right diet sets up your chicks for healthy growth, strong bones, a good immune system and eventually good laying or meat production (if you’re raising them for that). On the other hand, feeding mistakes can lead to stunted growth, weak birds, or illness.
I remember when I got my first batch of ten baby chicks. I was excited but also nervous. They were peeping, scratching the floor of the brooder, and I wanted to do everything right. On the first morning I realized that just throwing generic chicken feed into a bowl wasn’t enough. They needed something specifically formulated for newly hatched chicks, with the right size pieces, right nutrition, easy access to water, safe environment. From that moment I made it my goal to find out exactly what they needed at each stage. And in this article I’m going to share that knowledge with you—clear, honest and practical.
Whether you’re raising chicks for eggs, for meat or just as backyard pets, this guide will take you from day one until they’re ready to move into the big coop, covering what to feed, when to change feeds, what treats are safe, what to avoid, how to set up feeding stations—and much more. Let’s get started.
2. Understanding the Basics: What Chicks Eat and Why
Chicks, like adult chickens, are omnivores. That means they eat both plant matter (grains, seeds, greens) and animal material (insects, worms) in nature. In fact, in a free-range backyard or farm situation, young chicks will peck at seeds on the ground, scratch for small insects or larvae, nibble on tender greens and leftovers of human food (in a safe, proper way).
For example, according to one resource, chickens naturally eat seeds and cereals such as oats, wheat, barley and corn. On farms, their feed may also include soy and sunflower by-products to ensure all necessary nutrients. The same applies to baby chicks, though their needs are higher in protein and certain nutrients because they are growing fast.
Because the digestive system of a chick is still developing, the food and feeding setup must match their size, abilities and growth pace. If you give “adult chicken feed” too early, it may have the wrong balance of nutrients (for example too much calcium, which young chicks don’t need yet).
Also, early feeding has direct long-term effects. A recent study on chick nutrition showed that delays in feed access after hatching significantly affect weight, conversion efficiency and mortality later on. So yes, the basics matter.
In simple terms: you want to feed your chicks the right kind of food (starter feed), at the right size and frequency, provide clean water, ensure safe access, and gradually transition them toward adult diets. It’s a journey, and I’ll walk you through each stage.
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3. Feeding During the First Week
The first week of a chick’s life is crucial. Their body is doubling (or even tripling) in size, their digestive tract is developing, and their immune system is getting built. What they eat—and how soon they eat—can shape how well they grow.
The very first hours and days
Right after hatching, many chicks have absorbed the yolk sac inside their shell which gives some nutrients for the first 24-48 hours. That’s good, but it doesn’t mean you can delay feeding too long. In fact, as mentioned, studies show that even a delay of some hours reduces growth later on. So as soon as they are dry, alert, moving well and have access to feed and water, get them started.
Starter feed: what it is and how to use it
Starter feed (often called “chick starter” or “broiler starter” depending on breed) is formulated specifically for young chicks. It has higher protein (often around 20% or more) to match their rapid growth. It is often in “mash” or “crumbles” form so that little beaks can easily pick it up.
In practical terms: place the starter feed in a shallow feeder so chicks can’t easily fall in. Provide fresh, clean water nearby. Make sure the feed pieces are small and accessible. For the first week, let them eat freely (ad libitum) so they can grow without restriction (unless you have other management reasons).
Access to water
First feed is important, but water is just as critical. Even a short period without water after hatching can stress the chick and impact growth. Make sure the water is shallow, safe (so they don’t drown or get wet) and kept clean. Placing a few marbles or small stones in the water dish helps prevent drowning and reduces waste.
My tip/trick from experience
When my chicks were first day old, I placed the feeder in the brooder with a small fence around it (just a ring of cardboard) so the chicks got used to the feeding area quickly. I also sprinkled some starter feed on the brooder floor for the first few hours. I watched them pecking at it—it helped them learn where food is. The next day they were confidently feeding.
4. Starter Feed vs Grower Feed (and Beyond)
As your chicks grow past the first week or two, their diet needs to evolve. You switch from starter to grower, and later to adult feed (or layer feed) if you’re raising laying hens. It’s important not to use the wrong feed too early or too late.
What “starter” feed means
Starter feed is designed for young chicks (often from day 1 to about 6-8 weeks, depending on breed and management). It is high in protein (for growth), often moderate in calcium (since chicks don’t yet lay eggs), and usually in a small-particle form.
What “grower” feed means
After about 6-8 weeks (or when broilers are growing fast and laying birds are nearing point of lay), you switch to grower feed. This feed typically has slightly lower protein than starter, adjusts energy levels, and prepares birds for their adult stage. The exact timing depends on your type of bird (meat bird vs layer) and your management style.
When and how to switch
You should monitor your chicks: their size, activity, health, feathering, readiness. When they’re eating well, their beaks are strong, and they seem comfortable with their feeder, it’s time to switch. The switch should be gradual (for example mix starter and grower for a couple of days) so they adapt.
Differences for laying birds vs meat birds
If you’re raising chicks to eventually lay eggs, once they approach point of lay (around 16-20 weeks, breed dependent) you’ll switch to layer feed (higher calcium for eggshell formation). If you’re raising them for meat (broilers), their diet focuses on maximum growth and may switch to a “finisher” feed with higher energy. For both, starting correctly and switching at the right time is important. As one article puts it, chicks and adult birds have different diets because their functions differ (growing vs laying).
5. Key Nutritional Requirements
Feeding is not just about “giving food” but about giving the right nutrients in the right balance. Let’s walk through the key components: protein, energy (carbs/fats), vitamins & minerals, and digestion.
Protein: why it matters
For a chick, rapid growth means a high demand for building blocks. Protein provides amino acids which build muscle, feathers, organs. Insufficient protein will mean slower growth, weaker birds. One source emphasises that during the first days the digestibility of amino acids is lower, so higher quality protein is needed.
Carbohydrates and energy
Chicks also need energy to move, peck, grow. Grains like maize, wheat, barley contribute energy. According to a lesson from the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), grains such as wheat, rice, maize and barley can supply the carbs, while protein sources supply the building blocks.
Vitamins and Minerals
Minerals like calcium and phosphorus are crucial. For example, laying hens need more calcium for good eggshells. For young chicks, mineral balance is still important (bones forming, immune system developing). One guide says that birds need “formers” (protein), “energy” (carbs) and “protectors” (vitamins/minerals) for health.
Digestive health – grit, small stones, and maturity
Chicks don’t have teeth, so their gizzard (muscular stomach) uses grit (small stones) to grind food. If you allow your chicks access to small stones or coarse sand (in a safe way), that helps digestion. Some feeds will include small grit or you can offer separately. As one source says: “eat small stones” to help digest when not free-range.
6. Safe Treats and Extras You Can (and Can’t) Offer
While the base feed should be a commercial starter/grower, some treats or extras can be used to enrich the chicks’ diet—but with caution.
Good treat options
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Fresh greens (grass, clover, chopped lettuce) in moderation
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Small insects or mealworms – chicks enjoy pecking, and insects provide protein
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Kitchen scraps (vegetable pieces, boiled rice) but ensure no salt, spice, harmful ingredients
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Crushed eggshells (pasteurised) can supply calcium when appropriate
A guide says that beyond base diet you can offer “small amount” of other foods like meat, fish, cheese, vegetables, fruits—but these should not exceed about 10 % of the diet.
Things to avoid
Some foods are dangerous for chicks. According to sources: avoid avocado, potato skins, onion, citrus, raw beans, certain ornamental plant leaves. Also avoid giving adult layer feed to very young chicks because the calcium may be too high, which can harm bone growth.
My practical suggestions and cautionary tale
When I first raised chicks, I thought “Oh, they’ll love kitchen leftovers” and gave mine small pieces of cooked chicken and bread. Big mistake: I didn’t realise how easily the bread clumped and got damp in the feeder, attracting mould. Also I didn’t separate the kitchen scraps from the feed, so some chicks picked at scraps and ignored starter feed for a bit – this slowed growth. I learned to keep treats minimal, only offer healthy ones alongside the main feed, and monitor consumption. Treats are a bonus, not a substitute.
7. Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
You’ll do better if you know what to watch out for. I’ve made a few errors myself, which I will share so you don’t repeat them.
Mistake: Using the wrong feed
Giving adult layer feed or feed designed for other animals too early is a common error. It may have wrong nutrient balance (especially calcium) and feed size may be too large for small chicks. Always start with chick starter. As one article points out: “The chick starter should be used from 2 days to about 10 weeks; layer feed is unsuitable because high calcium may force too-rapid bone growth.”
Mistake: Feeding treats instead of main feed
It’s tempting to give lots of scraps, but if chicks fill up on low-protein or inappropriate treats they may ignore the starter feed and fail to get required nutrients. Always make sure the feed is available and visible, allow treats only after feed is consumed.
Mistake: Poor water access or feeder setup
If feeders are too deep, chicks might struggle. If water bowls are too deep, chicks might drown or get wet and chilled. Guarantee shallow dishes, regular cleaning, and check they are using them.
Mistake: Not adjusting diet as they grow
Chicks change fast. Not switching from starter to grower when appropriate may lead to inefficient growth or health issues. Also, failing to adjust for laying vs meat birds may misbalance diet.
My personal learning moment
In my first batch I didn’t realise how temperature influenced feeding. The brooder was a bit cold, so the chicks huddled under the heat lamp instead of exploring the feed. Result? They ate less than I expected. I learned: keep brooder temperature correct (usually around 32–35 °C first week, then reduce gradually) so chicks are comfortable to move around and feed.
8. Feeding Schedule: From Day-One to 8 Weeks (and Transition)
Here’s a sample feeding schedule and what you can expect. Adapt as needed for your breed, environment and whether you’re raising for eggs or meat.
| Age of chicks | What feed | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1 (hatch) to Day 7 | Chick starter (high protein mash/crumbles) | Provide free access to feed and water. Floor feeders may help first few hours. |
| Week 2 to Week 4 | Continue starter feed | Watch growth, monitor health, ensure no overcrowding. |
| Week 4 to Week 8 | Shift toward grower feed (or strong starter) | Start mixing grower with starter for transition. Ensure feeders are larger. |
| Week 8 to point of lay (for layers) or to finishing age (for broilers) | Grower feed. For layers, later switch to layer feed. For broilers, switch to finisher feed. | Watch for body condition, feathering, activity. |
| At point of lay (approx 16-20 weeks for many breeds) | Layer feed (higher calcium) | Ensure proper feed and access to grit for laying birds. |
Note: This schedule is general. Always read feed manufacturer instructions and adapt to your specific birds, climate, and management.
Transition tips
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When switching feeds, mix old feed and new feed for 2-3 days (for example 50/50 mix) so chicks adjust taste and gut flora.
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Maintain clean feeders and waterers throughout.
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Continue monitoring: growth rate, feathering, activity, health.
9. Special Considerations for Backyard vs Commercial Setups
If you’re keeping a few backyard chicks (as many hobbyists do) things will differ somewhat from large commercial operations. Let’s look at some distinctions and practical tips.
Scale and space
In backyard situations you might have fewer chicks, more space per bird, and possibly access to free-range scratch, insects, greens. That’s a good advantage: the more natural variety supports health. But also you have to monitor individual chicks more closely.
Cost saving and homemade feeds
In backyard setups you may consider making some of your own feed mixes or supplements. That can work, but you must ensure the mix meets protein, vitamin and mineral requirements. One article says that diets should give the correct energy, protein, minerals, vitamins and fatty acids from early life. If you make your own mix, you’ll need to research well or consult a nutritionist.
My backyard setup and lessons
When I moved from raising 10 chicks to raising 50, I realized the importance of feeder design, space per bird, rotation of feeders/cleaning and access to greens/insects. I found that letting them out to scratch in safe ground gave them extra nutrition (bugs, greens) which reduced the need to rely solely on feed. But I also had to take care of predators, weather, and provide shade/wind protection. The lesson: more natural is good, but management must be better.
Temperature, environment and health
In backyard setups temperature swings matter more (especially if you live in a place with variable climate). Chicks eating less because they feel cold (or hot) is a risk. So ensure the brooder has stable temperature and ventilation. Also dust bath area, clean bedding and feeder location matter.
10. Conclusion
Feeding baby chicks may seem straightforward, but if you break it down you’ll see there are many details worth paying attention to. From day one, you want a high-quality starter feed, clean water, safe and comfortable space, and gradual transitions as they grow. You’ll want to monitor protein levels, energy, vitamins and minerals. Offer treats wisely (not as a replacement for feed). Avoid mistakes like using adult feed too early, bad feeder design or ignoring the transition. In my own experience raising chicks, taking the time to learn and apply these principles made a big difference — the chicks grew strong, healthy and well-feathered, and I had fewer losses and problems.
If you aim for a good yield (eggs or meat) or just healthy backyard pets, this feeding plan will set you up for success. Remember: the chicks can’t pick the best feed themselves—they depend on you to give them what they need. Feed them well, keep them comfortable, and they’ll repay you with robust growth and good health.
11. FAQ
Q: Can I feed kitchen leftovers to baby chicks?
A: Yes in small amounts. But the majority of their diet should still be starter feed. Kitchen leftovers must be safe (no salt, spices, spoiled food) and only a small portion (no more than 10 % of total diet) to avoid unbalanced nutrition.
Q: When can I switch from starter feed to grower feed?
A: Typically around 6 to 8 weeks of age, depending on breed and growth. Mix gradually and monitor the chicks’ health, size and feathering before fully switching.
Q: My chick seems to ignore the feed – what should I do?
A: Check feeder height and access (should be shallow and reachable), ensure water is clean and accessible, check brooder temperature (if too cold/hot chicks may huddle or hide). Also sprinkle some feed on the floor to encourage pecking and learning.
Q: Is it okay to give mealworms or insects to chicks?
A: Yes — insects are a natural protein source and can be a healthy treat. But treat them as a supplement; ensure the main feed still meets all nutritional needs.
Q: How important is clean water?
A: Very important. Chicks need clean, fresh water all the time. Water supports digestion, health, growth. If water is dirty, shallow, or chilled, chicks may drink less and growth suffers.
